Double Ikat Sari

Patola, a double ikat sari. Natural dyes on silk; 842 cm x 111 cm. Provenance uncertain. c. mid 19th century. 7/3772.

Due to the unusual length (for Gujarat)of this sari, i.e. about eight and-a-half metres, and the main field composed of a unique yellow-ochre background with fine length-wise stripes in black, it appears that this patola was either made in Gujarat for use in the Deccan or the South, where striped saris of this length are commonly used, or was woven in the Deccan itself.

In fact, “a patolu fabric of this size is called dakshini patolu, lit. `South Indian Patolu’ “1. At one time Jalna, in Maharashtra, was known as an important centre of patola weaving in the Deccan. In Maharashtra, and certain parts of South India, “the sari is worn without any underwear and is generally more than eight yards in length to admit of its folds being carefully arranged to leave a double thickness over the upper parts of the legs”

Since similar specimens are not to be found in large numbers from Gujarat, it could be assured that this type of patola sari was meant for use in the Deccan or the South. The only other known piece of this kind is in the Calico Museum of Textiles, Ahmedabad.

1. Buhkr, A. et. al., 1980, p.59
2. Dar, 1969, p.91